RESOURCES | PRODUCTION
Production
Garment production is incredibly resource intensive. Here’s what to know about how clothes are made.
Before our kids’ clothes hit the rack, they pass through dozens of hands. From growing and processing fibers to spinning yarn, weaving fabric, dyeing and finishing, and finally cutting and sewing, each step uses resources and leaves an environmental footprint.
1) Environmental Impact:
One of the most polluting is the dyeing and finishing stage. Here’s a look at what makes this so harmful from an environmental and health perspective.
Water pollution: Textile dyeing and and treatment contribute to roughly 20% of global industrial water pollution. In many manufacturing hubs, untreated dye runoff gets directly discharged into waterways, contaminating it, harming wildlife, and affecting the health of surrounding communities.
Toxic chemicals: Dyes and finishing agents often use toxic substances like azo dyes, heavy metals, and formaldehyde, which can linger in the environment and sometimes in the fabric itself.
Why are these chemicals used? Dyes and finished give clothing its final look and feel, from color to softness, stretch, and wrinkle resistance. These features make a garment more appealing and wearable, but the chemicals aren’t always safe, and regulations for their use vary from country to country.
What are azo dyes? Azo dyes are synthetic colorants commonly used in clothing. They’re cheap and effective, especially for dark or bold colors like red, black, and navy.
Why are they harmful? Some azo dyes break down into aromatic animes—chemicals that are linked to cancer, skin irritation, and respiratory problems. Between 15-50% of these dyes can wash off during production into local water systems.
Eco-friendlier options:
Low-impact dyes avoid heavy metals and harsh solvents, and use less water.
Azo-free dyes are formulated without carcinogenic aromatice animes.
Closed-loop dyeing systems recycle water and chemicals instead of dumping them into the environment.
Certifications to look for:
OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 indicates a finished textile has been tested for harmful substances, including banned azo dyes, formaldehyde, and heavy metals. If a product is OEKO-TEX certified, every component (fabric, zipper, etc.) has been safety-checked.
bluesign® focuses on the entire supply chain, certifying that factories use safer chemicals, responsible water and energy use, and minimize worker exposure to toxins. It’s especially relevant for brands that produce performance wear.
Sources:
European Parliament: The impact of textile production and waste on the environment
Changing Markets Foundation: Dirty Fashion
Environmental Health Perspectives: Toxic Threads
Silk & Willow: The Hidden Cost of Color
Springer Environmemental Science and Pollution Research (2024): A Review of Environmental Impact of Azo Dyes